Derived from the English word "to peel," peeling involves applying an exfoliating product, which causes varying degrees of skin shedding.
Their purpose is to refresh the complexion, remove blemishes, and reduce wrinkles. Peels stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize new collagen and elastin fibers. The resulting effect is a "new skin" effect.
The benefits of a facial peel are numerous, but the reasons why it is advisable to have a peel are varied. Peels are particularly recommended for:
to seek a “radiance boost” effect for a fresher and brighter complexion,
to treat grey and smoker's complexions,
to smooth oily and rough skin with enlarged pores, to remove keratoses, seborrheic warts, to treat fine lines and superficial or deeper wrinkles, to reduce wrinkles around the eyes and mouth (barcode), to treat pigmentary disorders: spots, pregnancy mask (Melasma), colored dark circles, to treat active acne, to reduce acne scars. Peels also have a certain tightening effect on sagging skin.
The preferred treatment areas are the face, neck, décolleté, and backs of the hands.
The more concentrated a peel is, the more potent its active ingredient and the greater its effect, with the corresponding potential for side effects. The risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation necessitates precautions regarding sun exposure.
Superficial peels:
Fruit acid peels such as 20% glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or pyruvic acid are common.
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels, between 12% and 20%, are the most widespread and are often considered a "one-size-fits-all" peel. Usually, no prior skin preparation is required.
The after-effects are minimal: the skin may be pink for a few days, with slight peeling, but there is no downtime.
Avoid sun exposure for one month.
The usual protocol is three to six peels spaced 15 days apart. Subsequent maintenance sessions will be scheduled to preserve the results.
Medium-depth peels:
The TCA peel, with a concentration between 20% and 30%, is the most commonly used.
Skin preparation is necessary before and between each peel.
Its penetration power depends on the application time and the number of layers applied at each session: the skin turns white (frosting) against a pinkish background.
The after-effects are more pronounced: brownish peeling of the skin for up to a week. Partial downtime is necessary. No sun exposure for 3 months, and use SPF 50 sunscreen.
The protocol consists of 3 to 6 sessions spaced 3 to 4 weeks apart.
Maintenance sessions can be scheduled every 3 to 6 months.
In the same category, we find superficial or medium-depth depigmenting peels based on kojic, phytic, azelaic, etc. acids, which are specifically indicated for reducing pigmentation of all origins. Their action is gradual and requires patience to achieve a satisfactory result.
Deep peels
, such as those using concentrated TCA (over 30%) or phenol, are indicated for very damaged, deeply wrinkled skin or skin with significant scarring.
These peels are reserved for experienced practitioners, particularly due to the toxicity of phenol, which requires careful handling.
The recovery is more involved, and the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is higher, necessitating strict sun avoidance.